Nature proved a fertile source of inspiration for Yoshiyuki Miyamae’s fall collection for Issey Miyake, which used the brand’s signature hand-pleating and “steam stretch” techniques to evoke tree rings.

Miyamae always makes sure he adds a performance element to his shows and for this one, musician Ei Wada played a guitar contraption attached to giant strings while Chiyako Maeda provided ethereal vocals.

Models emerged carrying metallic bags shaped like half-circles, which they opened and placed flat on the floor to reveal circular piles of fabric. These unfolded into accordion-pleated dresses and jackets that the models slipped over their black shirts and pants.

Graphic patterns with intersecting circles brought to mind African cloth but the steam-stretch looks were the most alluring. Ponchos with wavy hemlines bounced hypnotically with every step and a brown top was one of several items featuring an undulating pattern woven via computer.

The poetic display felt like an oasis of calm in the frenzy of fashion week.

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