Simon Porte Jacquemus’ show resembled a giant lab and the designer made all his guests wear color-splotched smocks, foreshadowing the fashion experiments to follow.
He worked mostly with a spongy fabric resembling Neoprene, crafted into voluminous shapes that variously read surgical, futuristic or downright clownish. Plain tunics featured oversize pockets and an occasional porthole on the stomach. A layer of transparent organza over the torso held together extra-roomy combos made of skirts and bolero jackets.
Jacquemus stuck to his tomboy aesthetic, styling most of the above with loose navy pants and white sneakers.
The extreme silhouettes climaxed with a series of bright sculptural coats, some of which were asymmetrically cut or embellished with litmus-test strips on sleeves.