Jonathan Riss’ fall runway outing for Jay Ahr was an organic development of his pre-fall lineup, featuring a graphic focus on industrial zippers. The motif was used as an embellishment throughout, serving as a rebellious wink to the punk era (Riss cites Malcolm McLaren as a big influence).

Riss focused on a sexy silhouette, working the brand’s signature trompe l’oeil effects on denim and leather. He also made a play for man-made fabrics: a shaggy cream faux fur came on a cool coat, a Lurex black knit for a tinsel-like sweater, and a textured polyurethane for a sporty jacket.

The punk reference climaxed with the finale of black dresses done in long suede fringe — they would have been perfect on Bow Wow Wow’s stage.

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