With his fall collection, Bill Gaytten etched the brand’s retro, romantic legacy with a light hand while asserting his penchant for modernism. He also went for a dressier, ladylike look heightened by elbow-length gloves and sweetheart necklines.

Fit-and-flare dresses and taut peplum jackets with demonstrative fur collars nodded to the Fifties, though the lustrous and scubalike fabrics and embellishments made them seem more of the moment.

Copper zippers traced a biker-jacket line on a princess coat while rectangular crystals winked from the seams of a sculpted siren gown.

The show was a no-frills affair, but it pointed to a fruitful path for Gaytten to continue following.

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