Those four telltale white stitches, signifiers of Maison Martin Margiela, have company next season: The Harris Tweed label occupies prime real estate on the exterior of trim overcoats and peak-shouldered jackets that underpinned a charming, borderline chaste collection.

The show had the relaxed, friendly feel of a Sunday stroll. Cue the park-bench seating and the grandparent-friendly fabrics, including brown herringbones and plaids, tea-stained curtain lace and pajama-striped cotton.

The Margiela edge came through in the tailoring: nipped waists and hunched shoulders, and sculptural sleeves that resembled apostrophes viewed from the side. Grandpa’s pants, hitched over the bosom, became a quirky bustier.

Aran and Norwegian sweaters were sculpted like Medieval armor, and didn’t need stitches or labels to read as cool.

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