Kristy Caylor built her fall collection around a self-portrait of Frida Kahlo, working off the self-reflective concept of “a look inside.” Backstage before the show, Caylor pointed out the graphic jacquards and silk prints developed from a vintage African textile that related conveniently to the coat Kahlo wears in the painting. In addition, super shiny patent leather jackets played on the idea of a mirror, while knits, hand-done in Peru, had cutouts at the hips, elbows and “over the heart.”

Storytelling has been somewhat of an obsession at Maiyet since it launched with its own curious brand bio that needed explaining. Now that the backstory has been established, at least within the industry, the label needs to create a strong aesthetic identity. Spring was the first solid expression of a specific look — streamlined tailoring with an upscale artisanal undercurrent and a touch of lingerie edge — which Caylor developed nicely for fall.

Lean, elegant tribal jacquard coats in shades of deep purple, black and gray/blue looked great over printed slipdresses. Touches of leather and fur, some of it in bright yellow set against black, emphasized the luxury angle.

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