No pyrotechnics, no frightened Husky dogs and no complicated fashion messages to decode here: Designer Giambattista Valli went straight for the pre- and après-Soul Cycle set with a sporty, city-minded collection of outerwear for women and men.
His offhanded approach to luxury materials — mashed up with puffer nylon, camouflage prints and graffitilike brocades — was fun to watch. All the coats were worn with leggings and slip-on sneakers, the comfort shoe of choice up and down the front row, incidentally.
The show unfurled in three vignettes as floor-to-ceiling screens ringing the runway broadcast urban sprawl, collapsing icebergs and such. First up: Athletic stripes streaked across gray flannel or silvery leather anoraks and overcoats. The bands often came in triplicate, as in orange mink strips ringing the hips of a tawny astrakhan cocoon coat.
Next came a run of drab boiler suits and sturdy parkas in UPS-uniform brown, and lastly, trim gray flannel coats and hoodies paved in silver spikes. You can bet the farm they’ll be all over street-style blogs come September.