For his sophomore collection for Paco Rabanne, Julien Dossena evolved his vision of athletic-meets-evening with outfits that blended references to martial arts with sleek tailoring.

Crisp blue shirts, some with micro pinstripes, were shown with a chic take on body armor — poplin vests covered with leather lozenges that were sliced open to reveal thin lines of contrasting color for a graphic effect. They were a modern and lightweight update on the label’s signature Space Age dresses.

Dossena gave form-fitting black knits a similar sporty spin with insets of sheer or white panels subtly tracing streamlined curves. The monochrome theme was carried through to pantsuits adorned with oversize white zippers in reference to Seventies ski suits.

The designer nodded to the house’s heritage more explicitly with vests and dresses in a wide metal mesh inspired by safety pins, and chain mail wrap skirts with dipping hemlines that were paired with two-tone zip-up tops.

A Balenciaga alum, Dossena is also the driving force behind fledgling brand Atto, one of the semifinalists for the first LVMH Young Fashion Designer Prize. This solid collection confirms him as one of Paris’ rising young talents.

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