Alessandro Dell’Acqua infused his Rochas debut with a hefty dose of fashion. The designer honed in on oversize silhouettes, layering and embellishment, serving them up with a lady-meets-punk attitude and some faint Goth undertones.


The vibe was a good decision — until the show veered toward the proverbial “too much of a good thing.” Dell’Acqua opened with several strong looks, including a slouchy peplumed tank top in beige alpaca shown with a relaxed linear skirt, its side featuring a narrow panel of embellishment. These pieces winked chicly at minimalism, though a lot of the lineup was marked by textural excess.

Coats, shirts, pencil skirts and even peplums were decked out in crystals, sequins and mini tassels, while voluminous floor-length dresses came in shimmering tiers of brocade jacquards. An embroidered and sequined sporty jacket with a floral peplum was teamed with a patent pencil skirt.

Dell’Acqua demonstrated little restraint, right down to the heavily beaded gloves. Though overstated at times, the collection made for a strong visual statement — the kind that gave Rochas the jolt it needs to move in a new direction.

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