Roland Mouret is in a reflective mood. “The show is more about my emotion, about me,” he said backstage. “I am in my 50s now. It’s a rich time for me because I can use everything that I did in the past.”
A slightly misleading statement, perhaps. Known for his linear, graphic tailoring, there were indeed elements from the designer’s previous collections — an origami fold here, a cut-to-the-body shape there — but this was no “best of” lineup. Instead, Mouret broke up his aesthetic with decorative effects, from textural to embellished, and softer silhouettes.
Taken apart, there were strong pieces, but as a collection it lacked a cohesive statement. A red shift dress was rendered with gridlike surface insets, while a black zippered jacket was shown with a skirt done in whimsical, stringlike car wash panels. Mouret also infused men’s wear touches via an exaggerated gray Prince of Wales vest over a red draped skirt in a matching pattern.
Standouts came toward the end: dresses adorned in feathers, some which were worked into patches on the skirt for a romantic touch to Mouret’s signature look.