It was hard to discern an overarching theme in Vanessa Bruno’s fall collection. While a gray-marl-corset-and-pleated-silk-skirt combo suggested a dancer’s silhouette, some of the other looks referenced military uniforms.

A zip-front sundress in a camouflage-inspired geometric print was paired with a khaki bomber jacket lightly rendered in a translucent fabric. A white version of the dress brought to mind parachute silk.

And what to make of the oversize, leopard-printed wool jacket or the off-white miniskirt cut like a dress shirt and embroidered to resemble fish scales? This lineup failed to deliver a coherent message.

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