Design duo Mikio Sakabe and his Taiwanese wife Shueh-Jen Fang have a reputation for theatrics, and this season they reprised a gender-bending stunt they carried out for fall last year. They used male models to show their women’s and men’s lineups, although at times it was hard to distinguish which was which.
The designers worked Chinese fabrics, symbols and detailing into a collection with an eclectic Tokyo street-fashion vibe. Some of the more approachable fare included pencil skirts in bright red Chinese satin, ankle-length chiffon and tulle dresses, shrunken sweaters with fruit motifs and paper-bag-waist trousers. As for the kooky, traditional Mao-collar shirts came cropped at chest level, and a black shirt had giant, ground-grazing silk sleeves.
Most of the clothes had a sculptural quality — a group of calligraphic tops featured geometric cutouts, and for the finale, a model appeared wrapped in a structural piece shaped like a ribbon.