Karolina Zmarlak updated her sleek, modernist aesthetic by channeling the Victorian era for fall. (She said she became inspired while watching Showtime’s British-American horror series “Penny Dreadful.”)

“The collection has that Victorian moodiness and a dark sensibility, but also femininity,” Zmarlak explained. “It has a more dressed-up feeling.” The designer’s silhouettes are instantly recognizable for their precise tailoring and structured feel, but this lineup featured a few looks with softer touches, such as a white crepe dress with an allover black tulle overlay or a silk tunic top with lace insets. She also stepped up her exotics, offering a ponyskin shell and skirt set, a detachable springbok fur vest on a cashmere coat, and the pièce de résistance: a black alligator jacket dyed in upstate New York. Zmarlak’s customers, loyalists to her brand of understated drama, will find plenty to love here.

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