The staging of Tokyo shows is often on the minimal side. Thankfully, Matohu designers Hiroyuki Horihata and Makiko Sekiguchi took a different approach this season. Their runway, lined with softly glowing lanterns, created the perfect setting for their fall collection, which was inspired by candlelight flickering against a silver folding screen and Junichiro Tanizaki’s seminal essay on Japanese aesthetics called “In Praise of Shadows.”
That focus on light and reflection translated into garments with varying degrees of shimmer and sheen. There was a touch of gold lamé in a matching collared blouse and short skirt, but other pieces featured more subtle aspects of shine — among them, dresses made from heavy fabric woven with metallic accents. Just as in past Matohu collections, kimono-style items played a key role, including a show-opening jacket with embroidered shoulders and a red and black striped dress. Coats also looked strong, especially a slouchy blue and black mélange style and another in an oversize red check, as did an abstract ombré pattern used for a jacket, A-line skirt and shift dress. Fans of the brand and its chic, distinctly Japanese character should not be disappointed come fall.