Many London designers favored a magpie sensibility this season, but no one is likely to outdo Christopher Kane.
“I’ve been obsessed with hoarders,” he said after his fall show, aptly paraded under a ragtag sculpture of scaffolding, wood and soil by artist Abraham Cruzvillegas in the Turbine Hall of the Tate Modern.
A stiff leather coat made of leather pleated to resemble corrugated cardboard — and then stapled together — set the tone for this DIY-looking collection, models’ heads shielded in stiff kerchiefs a la “Grey Gardens.”
Kane’s fashions are always inventive and original, exemplified by photo prints of flowers as they decayed over a week. This knocked the preciousness from shirred chiffon dresses. There was also wry humor in the moplike fringe that trimmed chunky cardigans and sweater dresses.
The collection pinged between mink coats too polished for Little Edie to tops and dresses messily cobbled together with strips of satin ribbon and crochet flowers. What stood out were the sleek coats and dresses randomly strung with crystal baubles — a technique also employed by Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen — and the languid and soigne black suits and dresses edged in ostrich feathers. They were definitely worth hoarding.