It’s hard to pinpoint what makes a great Missoni collection. House codes don’t get any more narrow than Missoni’s bright, knit zigzags, which are never left out of the equation. Yet Angela Missoni has an impressive, if not always reliable, range. She can work the look a million ways — has and did within the fall collection.
It was Missoni in finest form, not because of any specific theme — there didn’t seem to be one besides being generally “urban and 100 percent knitwear,” as she explained backstage. The lineup demonstrated the brand’s world-class knitwear know-how in a way that was fresh, distinctive and of this world. The clothes moved. Many of the models wore sneakers. The fashion wasn’t too serious. It wasn’t silly. It wasn’t simple. It wasn’t tricky. In other words, the knits were simply really good.
The show opened with a series of thick, handknit space-dyed looks, oversize cardigans, tunics and sweaters worn with cozy, chunky beanies, extra-long scarves and bare legs. There were too many colors and patterns in each piece to make it matchy, but there was a level of coordination to each outfit. The show progressed to include plaids and zigzags on leggings, structured cardigans, wrap-robe sweaters and track pants. Then it went to a series of shimmery, street disco styles with long lace dresses layered over T-shirts and mesh bralettes. A swingy cape was made from blunt-cut tiers of chartreuse fringe. A blanket wrap came in painterly blanket stripes. Layerings of lighter weight, slinky turtlenecks, tunics and full pants came in skinny blurred stripes. There was a strong graphic zigzag moment. Then the show faded to sexy, shimmying black with a few long, light witchy dresses. Missoni cast her spell.