Zany runway antics have always been a part of Tokyo Fashion Week, although the number of theatrical shows has definitely died down over the past few seasons as the city’s designers have opted for a more commercial (read: play-it-safe) approach.

 

But leave it to Yoshikazu Yamagata, a LVMH Prize semifinalist, to maintain the theatrical tradition — and to shake things up this season. An intriguing mix of influences guided him for fall. At one end of the spectrum: Anna Wintour’s first Vogue cover from 1988, starring Israeli model Michaela Bercu in a haute couture Christian Lacroix jacket with a beaded cross. At the other: Shigeru Mizuki’s manga series “Kitaro of the Graveyard,” which delves into a world of ghouls and mythological creatures.

 

The result of this inspirational mash-up was a high-octane show filled with outlandish looks referencing everything from traditional Japanese kimonos and geta sandals to hip-hop streetwear and animal motifs. There was a jacket made from ripped-up stuffed toys thrown over a long tiger-print dress and topped with a lampshade-shaped hat. There was a cocoon-shaped wrap coat covered in colored feathers and a helmet/mask that looked like a mass of decomposing fabric bearing trash bags of clothing and/or fabric. Another exit incorporated gold lamé pants with a miniature skeleton hanging off of them, a red glittery bustier, an embroidered coat and a headpiece featuring a chicken and a veil. A gown made, seemingly, of sandpaper closed the presentation.

 

Several models limped, lurched and staggered down the runway, zombie-style, and many wore Halloween-worthy masks and makeup. One male model sported a single red eye, replicating the image on his pullover. Appropriately enough, Michael Jackson’s “Thriller” hit the speakers as the audience members trickled out.

 

Needless to say, there was a lot going on in this show, and not everything held together. But it’s very rawness was a refreshing chance of pace, given the somewhat listless feel that has permeated the Tokyo collections so far.

By  on March 16, 2016
Writtenafterawards RTW Fall 2016

Zany runway antics have always been a part of Tokyo Fashion Week, although the number of theatrical shows has definitely died down over the past few seasons as the city’s designers have opted for a more commercial (read: play-it-safe) approach. But leave it to Yoshikazu Yamagata, a LVMH Prize semifinalist, to maintain the theatrical tradition — and to shake things up this season. An intriguing mix of influences guided him for fall. At one end of the spectrum: Anna Wintour’s first Vogue cover from 1988, starring Israeli model Michaela Bercu in a haute couture Christian Lacroix jacket with a beaded cross. At the other: Shigeru Mizuki’s manga series “Kitaro of the Graveyard,” which delves into a world of ghouls and mythological creatures. The result of this inspirational mash-up was a high-octane show filled with outlandish looks referencing everything from traditional Japanese kimonos and geta sandals to hip-hop streetwear and animal motifs. There was a jacket made from ripped-up stuffed toys thrown over a long tiger-print dress and topped with a lampshade-shaped hat. There was a cocoon-shaped wrap coat covered in colored feathers and a helmet/mask that looked like a mass of decomposing fabric bearing trash bags of clothing and/or fabric. Another exit incorporated gold lamé pants with a miniature skeleton hanging off of them, a red glittery bustier, an embroidered coat and a headpiece featuring a chicken and a veil. A gown made, seemingly, of sandpaper closed the presentation. Several models limped, lurched and staggered down the runway, zombie-style, and many wore Halloween-worthy masks and makeup. One male model sported a single red eye, replicating the image on his pullover. Appropriately enough, Michael Jackson’s “Thriller” hit the speakers as the audience members trickled out. Needless to say, there was a lot going on in this show, and not everything held together. But it's very rawness was a refreshing chance of pace, given the somewhat listless feel that has permeated the Tokyo collections so far.

To access this article, click here to subscribe or to log in.

To Read the Full Article
SUBSCRIBE NOW

Tap into our Global Network

Of Industry Leaders and Designers

load comments