Peter Jensen had a period of reflection for fall, deciding to look back on previous collections. The result was a playful lineup full of easy, layered separates with touches of his quirky charm.
“We normally have a muse for a new collection,” said Jensen. “This time we don’t. When we celebrated our 15th anniversary last year, we looked back and wanted to do a greatest hits of our collections. So we picked pieces, added new ones and refined them. We looked to the late-Nineties and also my graduate collection from Central Saint Martins.”
He teamed with his former Central Saint Martins tutor Julie Verhoeven once again, taking her black-and-white illustrations of female muses such as Nancy Mitford, Viv Nicholson, Nina Simone and Diana Ross for looks such as a printed canvas satin morning coat in blue or mustard, or a graphic on a T-shirt.
Highlights included a voluminous, soft-satin smock coat that resembled a painter’s jacket in sorbet yellow and a wool crepe color-blocked smock dress. There were smock and shift styles aplenty alongside shirt dresses, his best-known silhouette. His signature rabbit was redrawn, sitting sideways, on pieces such as cozy knit sweaters.
Jensen introduced sequins to his oeuvre, sprinkling them onto a dress with three-quarter sleeves and using them to create gigantic broochlike designs.