Gianvito Rossi’s collection ranged from the lavish to the cozy, and also marked the launch of his first men’s line, which he designed to suit himself. “I wanted an elegant shoe with modern proportions — and I didn’t want it to be green — or have studs,” said the designer during a walk-through at his showroom, where his spare, elegant men’s shoes were shown alongside the sumptuous women’s offering.
“Men’s shoes are either very elegant, quite fashionable — or classic,” said the designer, who displayed velvet slippers, suede lace-ups and Chelsea boots — all with a wider vamp and rounded toe, a shape he feels is missing in the market. Rossi feels so strongly about them that he’s opening two stores this year, one on Via Gesù in Milan and the other in Paris, on Rue du Mont Thabor, across the street from his women’s store.
The streamlined men’s offering was in stark contrast to his women’s creations, which ranged from brocade stilettos to knitwear and suede boots.
He took Japan as his inspiration, showing off shoes that glowed with gold brocade and had deep, v-shaped vamps edged in black silk, meant to mimic the sharp folds of a kimono. A gold-embroidered dragon — resembling a tattoo design — curled up the leg of a black satin, over-the-knee boot, while a pair of brocade mules had puffs of dark fox fur on the heel.
Some designs were more laid-back, in particular a lineup of stretchy knitwear boots and booties. There was a dark gold over-the-knee style, and a bootie that was part suede, part ribbed knit. In a nod to the comfort dressing that’s become the norm among fashion folk, Rossi also developed luxe scuff slippers with leather soles — in plain napa or in brocade and satin. “It turns the city into your hotel room,” he quipped.