Fall marks the fifth anniversary of creative director Josep Font at the helm of Delpozo. Backstage, his models stood in triangular formation, their heads wrapped in snug, cashmere knit hoods, some decorated with iridescent sequins to resemble the colorful feathers of a hummingbird. Through a translator, Font explained that he extracted the season’s color palette from the works of Hungarian painter József Rippl-Rónai — a member of Les Nabis, a group of Post-Impressionist artists of the 1890s — and his silhouettes from Swiss architect and sculptor Max Bill.
Organic shapes come naturally to Font, whose former training as an architect shines through in each of his collections. Here, his jackets and tops took on circular, constrained volumes, with pleated, tulip-shaped sleeves. Circle motifs also popped up on rounded gold buckles, which decorated Font’s trousers, tops, jackets and pointy ankle boots with a modern touch. The theme was driven home with giant, circular “Moon” bags covered in sequins with metallic handles inspired by Bill’s famous Möbius sculptures.
Font placed an emphasis on daywear with inventive shirting, peplum tops and trousers done in inky hues of cobalt blue, amber, burgundy and deep green. A pair of merino wool sweaters, tricked out with colorful embroidery and oversize sequins that mimicked fish scales, paired well with skirts and trousers in floral-printed copper-toned silk organza. Elsewhere, striped, color-blocked knits looked great with a bow-shaped cropped top and maxiskirt in navy blue silk wool.
A separates-focused wardrobe is a smart move that’s sure to pay off at the house. Though most of Delpozo’s looks turn up on red carpets, Rihanna recently stepped out in one of the collection’s spring 2017 daytime outfits, an orange and white striped midriff-baring top and white trousers at a pre-Grammys brunch event. If the transportive magic and whimsy Font is known to invoke felt amiss in some places, it certainly turned up in the evening category, where he whipped up exquisite silk tulle gowns with fanciful froth. In particular, a striped silk lame top paired with a tiered tulle skirt stunned.