The big constant in Tomas Maier’s design philosophy is the weather. What’s it going to be like when the clothes hit the stores? For fall, “It’s warm one day, it’s not warm the next,” he said during a walkthrough of the lineup. That meant lots of layers and knits.
There was a pronounced softness and comfort to the clothes, many of which skewed casual but never sloppy. Blanket color-blocked blanket scarves and chunky cardigans in gray and red could be robustly rustic or chicly city-fied when belted over an easy cashmere dress. A lot of the offer, such as a red sweater and matching knit track pants, was the kind of stuff that would make you stand out in an airport lounge. Maier’s nice use of strong color turned classics into statement pieces.
As a counterpoint to all the dressed-down stuff, he worked office-appropriate felt in tailored silhouettes — a little dress, a blazer — but always soft, not structured. There were little crepe de chine dresses cut with ease and more structured quilted jackets, skirts and dresses. The lineup built up to some lax evening looks, included a velvet jumpsuit with a melting heart motif and a series of loose black maxis — all under $1,000 — that channeled polished bohemia. Hearts carried over to the jewelry — one of the collection’s strong suits — with chic pendants, earrings, rings and linked necklaces. Maier doesn’t come across as the mushy type, but in explaining the hearts, he said, “It’s that time of year.”