Dusan Paunovic’s sober aesthetic bordered on drab this season, striking a monastic tone. The focus was on working with luxury fabrics, Paunovic explained, and not on seasonal fashion. “There’s no novelty here,” the designer said without apology.

The modest wardrobe on offer was very covered up, thanks to oversize tailoring that left more-than-a-little room to breathe.

New materials included waterproof technical cashmere for raincoats — supplied by Loro Piana — and chiné sweaters that had a nubby look, but were quite soft to the touch.

The Dusan woman is anything but a show-off: A subdued patchwork coat stitched from woven scarves was the closest thing to a statement piece.

This is a low-key universe with an arch, intellectual bent — though one might question the financial logic of shelling out $788 for a plain white T-shirt from the brand.

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