The faux fur flew at Miu Miu (some real stuff, too). It was everywhere. Every inch of the entryway, the benches, pillars and the grand staircase in the Palais d’Iéna was covered in fake purple fur. The crux of the collection was daffy, wildly oversize furry coats and coat collars, punctuated by fur rain hats and bubble newsboy caps and flat fur boots in cartoon colors — demonstrative blue, purple, green and yellow. It gave you a warm, fuzzy feeling, and not just texturally. The lineup, with its emphasis on happy hues and exaggerated feminine silhouettes, many of them strung with rhinestones and crystals galore, tilted toward the Seventies. At least on the surface level, it read as great fashion in a very good mood.
After the show, Miuccia Prada tried to position her message a bit differently. “It’s about the madness of glamour in this time, in front of a very uncertain future,” she said, clearly referencing the pivotal political moment that’s upon us. She said something similarly heavy after last season’s show, a delightful beach romp full of adorable retro swimwear and fabulous fur robes. Both times, the attempts to frame the collection politically or intellectually didn’t change or subvert the fact that at face value her designs registered as effusive, girly and fun in a maximal, madcap, eccentric Miu Miu way. They were set up for strong commercial translation. All the plush stuff gave a sense of softness and comfort. A teddy bear fur coat with an ultra-wide collar and rhinestone belt was worn over a full turquoise mohair skirt with a bubble cap and high-heel saddle shoes. A green, black, white and blue windowpane-plaid fur coat was paired with flat purple Modish moto boots. Even the slim silhouettes were over the top: a matching pink-and-white printed polo shirt and pants set worn with a glittery headband and big earrings; a dress covered in large green paillettes with a gold rococo embroidered swirl across the bodice. A retro current coursed through the show, heightened by the styling, but the group of fantastic bomber jackets with striped bands around the elbows and extravagant real fur collars stood out as very current. Likewise the wispy slips worn under long-haired pastel fur coats.
One thing Prada mentioned after the show that did resonate visually and politically was her focus on diverse casting, including models of a wide range of ethnicities, skin tones and body types. “It’s the first time we really got into different beauties,” she said. That’s not madness, that’s modern glamour.