Giambattista Valli went into the woods for his fall Moncler Gamme Rouge collection, setting the runway around an autumn foliage scene of fallen leaves and mossy plants surrounded by a moving forest video projected on the walls that made it feel like the room was spinning. Apparently, this little wooded glen was in Canada. At the end of the show, a troop of fully uniformed Canadian Mounties came out and stood guard for the models’ final walk.
As for the collection, Valli took Moncler’s outerwear-driven concept in a naïve, feminine, folkloric direction, layering chunky pink and maroon-ish tweeds with Fair Isle knits, Windbreakers and puffers in delicate floral prints, and accessorizing them with cozy knit socks and slippers, white tights and printed quilted puffer backpacks and camping rigs. Alpine bourgeoise good girls hit the trails in a boxy tweed jacket and skirt worn over a burgundy floral-print nylon jacket and white turtleneck, and a folksy white lace shift with red floral trim over a turtleneck and neck scarf, carrying a backpack that fastened like lederhosen across the chest.
Much of the lineup put a dainty, romantic spin on outdoorsy-ness, but there was a robust, sporty contingent too, much of which felt more relevant. A V-neck ski sweater with a striped neckline under a big fur coat, for example; a red-and-black buffalo-plaid workwear jacket, and a nifty red-and-white ski jacket-dress with a fur hood and drawstring waist that gave it a fit-and-flare silhouette.