Berlin-based Nobieh Talaei took her East meets West approach to new levels for fall, inspired by geometric structures and Cubist forms. She softened these up with her rich fabrics and color palette and flowing layers in a collection that was both powerfully formed and resolutely feminine.

Triangular folds gave interesting jutting proportions to skirts and sleeves, while leather or Steiff fur capes suggested angular, squared-off breastplates. Often, her layered, tone-on-tone creations in rich shades such as chocolate and burgundy made it difficult to tell where one piece ended and the next began. Was that a translucent shirt sleeve peeking out of that striking navy coat, or was it part of the design? Was that a jumpsuit, or clever layering of a blouse, skirt and pants? This all added to the mystical appeal of the collection, accentuated by the venue, the American Cathedral on Avenue Georges V.

While many designs had angular forms softened up by the fabrics used, there were also rounded shirt-like hems, most notably on a full-length soft white leather dress with the air of a ceremonial robe.

There was a lot of understated irreverence going on, too, as Talaei made full use of the raglan sleeve, giving sporty dimensions to certain looks with tone-on-tone leather front panels and silk sleeves. The fun was even more visible in a pair of navy blue teddy-bear shorts and a matching cropped coat, or a dress with an off-white skirt structured like a Chinese lantern.

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