The look was less preppy and more street this season at Paul & Joe, less cute and more rock.
The show opened with a wide-wale corduroy suit in lime green, setting the tone for a collection that saw designer Sophie Mechaly put her penchant for vivid textures and colors to use on a more masculine silhouette.
A long velvet hoodie sported a color-block graphic in amber and electric blue. Paired with floral silk bell-bottoms, the look married the season’s streetwear bent to the playful prints that are the designer’s signature.
Blown-up mouths in different shades of pink lipstick were a key pattern. When stitched on a kelly green blazer, the motif tapped into the brand’s whimsical heritage as well as the current zeitgeist of maximalist, even cartoony decoration.
“I wanted something extremely urban but also extremely luxurious,” Mechaly explained backstage. That upscale aspiration shone through on a fierce overdyed red velvet tuxedo. A transparent lace blouse was decorated with a constellation of rhinestones and pearls, bringing in an ultrafeminine touch to the largely androgynous lineup.