“The mix of different colors and the combination of contrasting textures are very typical of 5-Knot,” Taketo Nishino said after the first runway show for the brand he designs with Ena Kizawa.

For fall, the duo used everything from menswear-inspired wool fabrics to satin and faux fur. They said they drew inspiration in part from vintage clothing, and while there were old-fashioned motifs throughout, the overall mood was very modern: feminine but not girly, elegant but cool.

For fall, Nishino and Kizawa said they were inspired by a recent trip to Morocco, and specifically by the pomegranates they ate there, which informed their use of rich color and texture. A thick burgundy sweater with extra-long sleeves was paired with an ochre tulle skirt and raw-edged jeans, and a pomegranate-print velour dress was styled over Glen plaid trousers.

Silhouettes were loose and easy, but were often given shape with a self-tie or jacquard corset belt. Denim and corduroy jackets and pants kept the collection from veering too opulent.

The designers saved one of the most striking looks for last: a sweeping, striped navy tweed dress with attached cape and tufts of sky blue and white wool dotted throughout. Styled over a satin pussy bow blouse and wide-legged jeans, it looked just as comfortable as it did unconventional.

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