Known for her signature blunt bangs and unique style, Mademoiselle Yulia has been one of Tokyo’s most recognizable club kids since she was a teenager, and made her debut as a DJ in 2008 in her early 20s. Starting with spring 2016, she began funneling that fashion sense into her own brand, Growing Pains, which put on its first runway show this season as a part of Amazon’s At Tokyo program.

Yulia created what she called a “femme-military hybrid aesthetic,” sending out models including Yumi Lambert in asymmetric gathered skirts, pouf-sleeve blouses, olive drab trousers and bomber jackets. There was a gender-fluid edge to the collection, with men sporting layers of necklaces and women in wide-leg trousers and cargo-pocket vests.

Military influences were were in no short supply: There were epaulets, holster-style bags, camouflage prints and combat boots. But there were also nods to sport in the form of track pants, puffer jackets and snow pants.

Yulia said she took inspiration in part from World War II-era nurses, most obvious in the red cross motifs that adorned white ribbed sweaters and berets. But the last couple of looks took this concept a bit too far, bordering on costume-y. In a collection with myriad influences, a less literal interpretation would have felt more natural.

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