Mitsuru Nishizaki’s seven years as a pattern cutter under Yohji Yamamoto are testament to his skill in creating beautifully cut and draped garments, but this season he aimed to add “new possibilities and value” to his signature relaxed tailoring. The result was an edgier, less “pretty” collection of modern takes on classic separates.

Nishizaki employed lots of elements of men’s wear and suiting, such as button-up shirts so long they nearly grazed the runway, and a loose-fitting checked pantsuit with contrast sleeves. But he added unexpected athletic influences as well, such as rib-knit cuffs on blazer sleeves and snaps down the sides of pant legs.

While not as prominent as in previous seasons, he also showed feminine pieces. Long, embroidered mesh skirts were worn over slim trousers, while a pale pink sleeveless trenchcoat topped a charcoal gray funnel-neck sweater. And speaking of knits, Ujoh’s were soft and roomy, with asymmetric slits up the side that were sometimes filled in with a gathered swath of a contrasting fabric.

The juxtaposition of dressed-up with dressed-down created a look that was feminine enough to appeal to Nishizaki’s customer base, but comfortable enough to attract the attention of any city girl on the go.

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