When Dunhill appointed Kim Jones as creative director last year, the British label asked the street-influenced designer to shake up its formal aesthetic. The Englishman did that Sunday with a promising first collection, which put a youthful spin on classic tailored pieces, from herringbone fly-front topcoats and double-breasted overcoats to a handsome Macintosh with a London map printed in the lining. Color-block sweaters added a breath of fresh air, although wool trousers with a floating waistban, lapel-less jackets and a wash of tromp l’oeil effects were more miss than hit. This was a good start for Jones, but it remains to be seen if his knack for youthful novelty is the right formula for this heritage brand.

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