Martin Margiela dialed down the retro rummaging this season, concentrating on linear silhouettes and more classic looks. There were still plenty of conceptual tricks, including a rain jacket replete with a fake rain effect on the shoulders, and an “after-party” shirt with a faux red wine stain. With Diesel owning the company, jeans were a strong category: flocked or pilled to look worn or with a permanent crease down the front.

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