Brioni’s collection quietly oozed luxury, harnessing a range of plush fabrics such as velvet, three-ply herringbone and alpaca. The company has also signed an exclusive with Loro Piana for its cashmere. Blazers and coats were cut short and slim to emphasize the waist. Jackets were often unlined, and fashioned from double-faced, airy fabrics. Natural organic shades reigned, although there were sprinklings of deep color such as violet and blue, as exemplified on the house’s lovely scarves. The house used velvet both for after-dark tuxedo jackets and day-friendly blazers. Brioni’s growing sartorial sportswear element was well-executed and featured interpretations of British tailoring fabrics.

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