“Protection” is how Italo Zucchelli described his fall lineup backstage, and he couldn’t have been more to the point. In a generally strong collection, Zucchelli once again experimented with shape and construction, offering extra-padded nylon coats and pullovers that can withstand a few blows, top-heavy wool bomber jackets, and ultrawide trousers that narrowed to the hem. Zucchelli continues to make his mark at Calvin Klein for his play with new fabrics and proportions, and while guests Zac Efron and Joe Jonas are perhaps unlikely to embrace those looks, the designer had plenty of sophisticated alternatives up his sartorial sleeve. Tailoring was a strong point for fall, and a pine hue brought a welcome sense of warmth to the designer’s color palette of grays, reds and blues. Zucchelli accentuated a tuxedo jacket with a shiny tape seam, a move that not only underscored his commitment to the brand’s modernism, but also could make for quite a dashing statement the next time teen heartthrobs Efron and Jonas cross the red carpet.

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