Dries Van Noten fell in line with fall’s military fixation, but in a freewheeling way that played to the Belgian designer’s strengths as a tailor and colorist. A battalion of navy jackets and overcoats — some oversize and belted, others slim-line Crombies or pea styles — formed the backbone of this handsome collection. Van Noten added interest via removable fur collars and lapels — or less convincingly with inner nylon shells in contrasting shades. He showed little discipline in the pants department, sending out skinny motorcycle and oversize styles in equal measure. Even if the slouchier shapes looked newer, Van Noten seemed intent on knocking the uniformity out of uniforms.

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