Mugler’s new creative director Nicola Formichetti, stylist to Lady Gaga, is known for his love of extreme fashion. But his debut men’s collection, designed with wingman Romain Kremer, was tethered to the real world, centered on sharp-shouldered suits and coats. These played on founder Thierry Mugler’s references — bright orange and blue; lapel-free jackets; precise tailoring; snaps and zippers — viewed now through a streetwise lens. Things got a bit weirder — and the exclusive techno soundtrack by Gaga pounded harder — as the show progressed. Pearls, rubber aprons and floating chiffons were a nod to Mugler’s obsession with glamour, modeled by tattooed zombie boys. Balancing dark styling with commercial garb, the collection was a good start.

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