The Bottega Veneta man pulled on his colorful, high-heeled ankle boots and strode out of his comfort zone in a collection that exuded a cool, rock ’n’ roll masculinity. Lean, pristine suits made for an optically entertaining opening act, splashed with geometric colorblocking. Things quickly hardened up with the spotlight shifting to knits and outerwear. In a season of mixed materials, Tomas Maier lightly applied tonal accents and contrasts to striking effect. Fabrics were rich and wintry, yet ultralight. Flocked velvet bled from the V-neck of a black cashmere sweater; strict wool coats carried graphic black rubber print details; black cashmere-velvet pads capped the shoulders of short jackets. The sheepskin biker jacket was a standout, as was the cream double-breasted antique shearling jacket, sporting just one button at the top. Everything felt ultraluxurious, comfortable and youthful, down to the coated dark navy denim.

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