With luxury sportswear all the rage, an intriguing marriage of precious materials and stylized urban garb characterized this collection by Italo Zucchelli, with varying degrees of success. Opening the show, navy wool felt sweatshirts with detachable hoodies in crocodile skin and steroid-charged volumes felt a little too bling-bling and dated. The use of urban surfaces felt fresher, such as concrete-textured leather on bomber jackets, and the TV staticlike speckled print on the line’s sharp suits, in both gray or Technicolor. In a season when the silhouette has been getting ever more slim, especially in trousers, Zucchelli took the opposite tack with voluminous outerwear worn with wide-legged pants. The outerwear worked best when combined with his pencil-slim suits.

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