“We’ve ratcheted it up a whole level,” Fendi chief executive officer Michael Burke said of the Roman house’s men’s collection, now under the purview of designer Silvia Fendi and back on the Milan calendar. For the presentation, mannequins were lined up on a mirrored runway, flanked by giant monitors flashing with sped-up Milan street scenes. “It’s about fusion,” Fendi said of the streamlined and luxurious collection, referring to the blending of formal and casual dress codes and the melding of disparate fabrics without stitching. A dark blazer morphed from wool into shaved mink; a cardigan transitioned from jersey into leather. Even jeans were flecked in multiple shades of blue, from peacock to midnight. The craftsmanship and technology were impressive. Now Fendi just needs more fashion adrenalin to take its men’s wear from subdued to spectacular.

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