Milan’s designers have been celebrating traditional men’s wear fabrics such as tweed, herringbone and Glen plaid for fall, and Giorgio Armani is no exception. The designer put his own spin on tradition for this masculine but soft-edged collection, which was packed with knitted wool, stretchy fabrics, velvet, wide-ribbed corduroy and textured leather. Knitwear worked double time as outerwear in the form of double-breasted coats with patch pockets and short jackets with high, zippered necks. Some knits added a bright spark to the overall palette of gray, brown and navy: The cashmere Fair Isle sweaters in cyan blue and white channeled the mood of Fifties Saint Moritz. That softness and comfort wove its way throughout the collection: Fitted tweed or corduroy suit jackets had deconstructed shoulders, while anoraks were made from black velvet. Armani even bucked the overall trend in Milan for narrow, snug trousers, and instead opted for a looser, pleated silhouette that narrowed at the ankle. Then there was his version of the power suit, which exuded the arrogant confidence of the Roaring Eighties.

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