Miuccia Prada staged a fashion show dedicated to power — complete with a runway finale of acclaimed actors that had the laid-back men’s pack roaring with applause. Dressed in severe coats evoking Eastern Bloc military dress, the likes of Willem Dafoe, Tim Roth, Adrien Brody and Gary Oldman roamed a massive, carpeted space unmoved by the response. (They are actors, after all.) Prada lent her status as a fashion influencer to a big mood change in men’s wear. Sunny colors and cheerful prints were discharged and replaced by clothes that are darker, more severe and sometimes even drab. In Prada’s hands, they look new and compelling. The designer described the collection as a riff on powerful men, and how fashion can telegraph authority, might or supremacy. “Clothing is also a tool of power and a way to express male vanity,” she said. From the first exit — a smart dark coat over a white turtleneck, slim pants and gleaming dress shoes — Prada set a military tone. Belted coats in lightweight wool were a major statement, and were often decorated with badges and dangling sunglasses over the heart. Sometimes coats were layered over other coats, vests, shirts and turtlenecks. Prada said the show was also about a “historical memory” — a sweep that includes her own legacy. The offbeat colors — including mustard and dull purple — and vintage-look fabrics could only come from her. And among the cast of show characters were some of her runway models of yore. The show was the talk of Milan.

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