Weaving a story around his collections is very much Umit Benan’s thing. Even for his runway debut, the designer re-created an army camp at the end of a war, scattered with camp beds and leather punch bags, as an entertaining backdrop to the catwalk. Among the characters was a tattoo artist burning flesh live and a soldier showering in the buff, before drying off and slipping into his clothes to hit the runway. The underlying moral of the story was the equality of men in uniform. Benan fused nylon sleeves onto a double-breasted loden top coat, using cashmere-alpaca checks in lieu of camouflage on belted utilitarian jackets with epaulets, and morphing long johns into a loungey quilted tracksuit. As an evolution from the designer’s bohemian soft tailoring aesthetic, this felt more masculine and grown up.

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