Michael Kors didn’t need a good show to have a good week; a 27 percent single-day stock price leap, as his company boasted on Tuesday, will likely leave a guy feeling pretty happy.
Still, one can’t call his terrific show the proverbial gravy; it means too much to him. For 30-plus years (not to beat a dead horse, but some of them rough ones), Kors has been happy to give his ladies what they love: glamorous, sporty clothes that are sexy and practical, an ongoing process he reassesses studiously. “What does American beauty really mean?” he posed in a preview this week. “At the end of the day, it’s ruggedly elegant.” And oh, yes, luxurious — never more so than right now, as he sent out a lineup with an extravagance to match the merry financial roll his brand is riding.
Global warming seems not be of particular concern for Kors. He swathed his girls in buffalo-check blanket wools, beefy tweeds and fur, fur, fur. The first two came in ponchos, coats and midcalf skirts of the Seventies sort; the last, in everything from megavolume coats (knitted coyote, platinum fox); lush, asymmetric collars, and accessories including hats, neck ruffs and pack-for-a-week shoulder bags. Abundant outerwear proportions were tempered by the substantial yet languid clothes beneath. Of course, rugged is a relative concept. Sometimes sensible sweaters were paired with delicate lace skirts or matching knitted briefs. And Kors worked in a more ladyfied approach for smart dresses, one a strapless black wool stunner; another, in black leather with lace insets. Evening was limited and focused: sleek sparklers in body-skimming lines.
The designer took a similar route with his men’s wear, showing some plaid looks teamed with shaggy alpaca sweaters or bearlike duffle coats for a rich, rugged feel. A well-executed play in textures came in the form of a stunning camel-brushed wool moleskin anorak mixed with a hand-knitted tweed pullover.
Kors pulled Karmen out of order to lead his finale. She wore a flapper-esque chemise that looked crafted out of solid gold. Gee, wonder why.