Channeling Sixties counter-culture types led Phillip Lim into some tricky territory this season. Pieces such as translucent polyurethane duffle coats, sweaters worn as shawls and knit boardshorts didn’t have the laid-back appeal of Lim’s past men’s collections. The best looks were less studied, such as a slouchy overcoat done in a herringbone print version of the polyurethane fabric, or a white zippered fleece-lined coat with leather lapels.

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