A cloud of stage smoke and a thumping Iggy Pop soundtrack accompanied Demeulemeester’s usual suspects — romantic rockers looking as handsome as ever. In the opening act, sooty dégradé brush strokes enlivened softly structured long jackets and morning coats in ivory. Off-white topcoats with asymmetric closures were grand. Other looks felt young at heart, like the grungy, cropped loose pants, or knee-length black T-shirts with dip-die shots of coral.

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