Chicer barracks there have never been. Taking military uniforms as his inspiration, Kris Van Assche dispatched a tailored army through five tall French doors and across a vast expanse of dark parquet. The combination of officer dress codes and French luxury know-how was powerful, making this one of the Belgian designer’s strongest and most approachable collections to date. The show opened with a parade of officer greens: oversize greatcoats, slim suits, tubular parkas, languid ponchos and sleek leather field jackets. Zippers ran up the back of many of the longer coats, a nifty detail that added swagger — and practical access to pockets. The jacket silhouettes were varied, including a four-button style that looked young and fresh. Backstage, Van Assche said marrying tailoring to sportswear was his primary mission this season, and the soldier theme left him lots of room to maneuver. The show reached a crescendo with pants and flight jackets in a camouflagelike print of doves in flight.

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