Creative director Bill Gaytten is laying the foundations for a more retail friendly evolution on the house’s rebellious DNA. Strip away the chunky fur coats, the black patent Macs and the electric blue velvet suit — and this outerwear-heavy fall collection looked more commercially viable than ever. There were sharp trenchcoats, belted peacoats in a retro wool check and Al Capone-inspired power suits. (Notorious heroes from prohibition America were the reference this season.) Gaytten also turned a page on the founder’s pyrotechnics, theatrical makeup and steamy underwear parades. That puts the attention, more than ever, on the clothes, which were at times lacking a little oomph.

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