Mihara Yasuhiro is on his way up. His restrained use of military reference and sly fusions of East-meets-West elements looked totally fresh. Suits were relaxed and sober, the flannel pants as easy as sweatpants. The designer morphed aviator-style shearling jackets into terrific ponchos. Even the sharp camouflage tuxedos — cheesy as that might sound — looked cool in the designer’s hands, their shadowy gold and black patterns subtly glinting.

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