With folksy sea shanties on the soundtrack and an image of choppy waters the runway’s backdrop, it was clear Paul Smith had a nautical theme in mind. But the designer put a cool, modern spin on the rugged fabrics he employed. Many of the models looked like stylish sailors set to trawl nighttime waters, wearing snug peacoats with reflective panels at the shoulders; chunky marl sweaters layered over fluorescent yellow T-shirts; or navy padded blousons. To balance those more substantial shapes, the designer sent out his lean tailoring, the jackets and pants mismatched. A shark’s tooth print on sweaters and pants added sharp wit to this appealing lineup.

With folksy sea shanties on the soundtrack and an image of choppy waters the runway’s backdrop, it was clear Paul Smith had a nautical theme in mind. But the designer put a cool, modern spin on the rugged fabrics he employed. Many of the models looked like stylish sailors set to trawl nighttime waters, wearing snug peacoats with reflective panels at the shoulders; chunky marl sweaters layered over fluorescent yellow T-shirts; or navy padded blousons. To balance those more substantial shapes, the designer sent out his lean tailoring, the jackets and pants mismatched. A shark’s tooth print on sweaters and pants added sharp wit to this appealing lineup.

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