With folksy sea shanties on the soundtrack and an image of choppy waters the runway’s backdrop, it was clear Paul Smith had a nautical theme in mind. But the designer put a cool, modern spin on the rugged fabrics he employed. Many of the models looked like stylish sailors set to trawl nighttime waters, wearing snug peacoats with reflective panels at the shoulders; chunky marl sweaters layered over fluorescent yellow T-shirts; or navy padded blousons. To balance those more substantial shapes, the designer sent out his lean tailoring, the jackets and pants mismatched. A shark’s tooth print on sweaters and pants added sharp wit to this appealing lineup.

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