Savile Row through the lens of McQueen. This dramatic collection may have been rich with references to British heritage weaves and fabrics, to military dress — and even to the clergy — but it was forward-looking and utterly fresh. Dark pinstripe suits were nipped and slick with McQueen’s signature raised-pagoda shoulder and low-rise, cropped trousers. Later in the show, creative director Sarah Burton took those pinstripes and smashed them, reforming them into a patchworklike design where they resembled white pick-up sticks scattered across a dark suit. Other suits were made from artful patchworks of Prince of Wales and other checked fabrics. Long, sweeping coats fashioned from rectangular blocks of black and red wool resembled Cardinals’ cassocks — and came with matching trousers. As the show evolved, more colors began to creep into the collection with suits covered in patterns recalling the glowing stained-glass windows of the Catholic England, before Henry VIII’s break with Rome. The show closed with an impressive lineup of evening jackets crafted from an elegant patchwork of velvet, satin, grosgrain and jacquards, some with flourishes of gold embroidery.

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