The hoarder — and obsessive compulsive tendencies — were among the designer’s many inspirations. Bomber jackets and sweaters came with vertical and horizontal panels constructed from different fabrics and textures, with waffle and cable knits paired with nylons — all inspired by jumble sale booty. Some of the jackets even came with zip-off, quilted arms. Jeans were embellished with slashes of gaffer tape across knees, seams and turn-ups, but there were also luxe elements at play in the shape of leather shirt jackets worn long at the back like a contemporary version of the classic tailcoat.

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